Materials
and finishes that aid the breathing of shoe uppers include:
* Unlined suedes, nu-bucks [a very fine suede], leathers
* with a minimum of finish on the surface.
* Special 'polymeric' synthetic lining materials
* Nylon meshes found on joggers
* Open weave type uppers
* Punched holes in the uppers
* Even stitching holes in moccasin type uppers
Upper
and lining materials and different styles that reduce the
breathing of shoes include:
* Leathers finished with lacquers, waxes, oils and plastic
* coatings
*Non-woven synthetic and plastic linings and uppers
*Non-polymeric synthetic and plastic linings
*Having no ventilation holes in the uppers
*Higher cut lace or zipper boots.
Quality
leather uppers have
an advantage over any synthetic uppers in that they have the
ability to stretch and mold to the shape of the foot without
splitting, cracking, going hard or the surface peeling over
time.
Cheap leathers can vary from being too hard and thick, to
being thin, soft and very stretchy - none of these features
are desired in dance shoes.
The
best upper leathers for dance shoes that money can buy, anywhere
in the world, are made here from
Australian Kangaroo Leather.
This leather, now available in Australian made PRODANCE footwear
[black only],
has uppers that are ultra thin, ultra soft and ultra strong.
Kangaroo leather is so good, that it is used by World Cup
Soccer players for their shoes.
6.
FOOTWEAR SOLE MATERIALS
Sole
materials used in dance footwear construction usually need
to be thin, flexible and have a reasonable amount of slip.
They include smooth leather, suede leather, thin resin, thermoplastic
rubber, micro-cellular rubber and polyurethane.
Dancers
should be aware that the degree a particular dance shoe may
slip or stick to a wooden dance floor, will vary hugely from
floor to floor.
In practice this may have more to do with the individual floor
surface than the sole on the dance shoes.
Suede
leather soles are very thin, light and flexible.
They are used for Classical Ballet shoes, Latin shoes and
traditional Ballroom shoes, and may only be used inside on
a wooden dance floor. Suede soles usually pick up a layer
of wax form the older wooden floors, which may make the shoes
less slippery. This can be brushed off with a special wire
brush; but each time you do this it takes some of the surface
suede as well, reducing the life of the shoes each time this
is done. Most newer dance floors have an epoxy or polyurethane
coating on the surface, which reduces any build-up from these
floors.
Smooth
leather soles may be slippery to dance in and ruin
easily when worn outside or if they get wet.
Used for Latin, Ceroc and Rock 'n' Roll by experienced dancers
with good control on the dance floor, who like
to do a lot of fast spinning.
Also commonly used in Character shoes and some Classical Ballet
shoes.
Not suitable for dancing on tiles or concrete.
Thin
resin soles are extremely hard wearing, can be
worn inside and outside on all dance surfaces and are suitable
for Latin dancing. They have a less slippery, softer feel
when worn in, closer to suede than to smooth leather. Ideal
for those who do not wish to carry around two pairs of shoes
when going dancing.
Microcellular
Rubber and E.V.A. soles are made from either natural
or synthetic rubber that has been
expanded with differing amounts of air, to different thicknesses
and densities. The more it is 'blown' with air, the lighter
it gets in weight, the softer it becomes and the worse it
wears. Very thin types of this material are used for Jazz
shoe soles, while a thicker version is used as a light-weight
wedge sole for Rock 'n' Roll / Swing shoes. Variations of
this material are also used as midsoles in the better joggers,
giving this style of footwear a lot of its lightness and bounce.
Polyurethane
is formed from chemicals reacting under pressure inside a
mold. Must be made to very exacting standards, otherwise becomes
unstable, cracks and goes to powder with age. When made properly
is expensive, but very light weight and hardwearing. Suitable
for outdoor use. Jazz sneakers use this as a sole material.
7.
SOLE and HEEL REPAIRS
This advice applies to the Prodance shoes displayed in our
catalogue. It may apply to similar styles in other brands
as well.
Most shoe repairs do not stock the correct resin and suede
sole materials we use for our Prodance Dance Shoes. Should
you require your shoes to be resoled, you should ask for the
following - and accept no substitutes, as you probably will
not be happy with the result. Always obtain a quote first
and do dot bother with a re-sole unless the shoes are in very
good condition.
RESIN SOLE - Ask for 2.5mm Black
or Beige Resin. Do
NOT go thicker as the sole will be too heavy and rigid.
Do NOT get TOPY NON-SLIP or similar materials for obvious
reasons.
SUEDE
SOLE
- Ask for 1.2mm Chrome Split Suede in pale grey or black.
SMOOTH LEATHER SOLE - make sure
thec leather is no thicker than your worn sole.
LADIES HEEL TOP PIECES - Ask
for Vulco Smooth top pieces for repairing the heel tips. This
is a special hard type of rubber used for this purpose. Never
ever buy plastic top pieces.
If you are in Sydney you can try:
Brice's Shoe Repairs - Shop 41, Imperial Arcade, Sydney. Phone
02 9233 2836
8.
CHOOSING LADIES SOCIAL DANCE SHOES -- ALWAYS A DIFFICULT TASK!
Heel Height
should not be so high as to create aches or pains when worn
dancing, or to aggravate existing foot, leg or back ailments.
Remember the smaller the foot size for any given heel height,
the steeper the angle the foot will be to the dance floor.
Dancers with high arches should also wear lower height heels.
In my experience the most acceptable heel height range for
most dancers, creating the optimum compromise between look
and comfort, is usually between 51 mm and 63 mm (2 to 2 ˝
inches). Some dancers are happy with 75mm (3 inch) heels,
but few dancers can tolerate heel heights of 89mm (3 ˝ inches)
or higher without a platform under the forefoot to reduce
the ‘effective’ heel height.
Slightly
higher heels than normal, may be advantageous to dance styles
such as Tango, where the dancer tends to be on her toes a
lot more - but beware, the comfort and pain factors still
apply!
Very
bulky or chunky style heels generally are not suitable for
dancing.
Front Straps. Very
thin straps are less supportive than wider ones and are more
likely to stretch too much, making them loose. Alternately
thin non-stretch synthetic straps may dig into the skin causing
them to become tight and uncomfortable. 8mm or wider leather straps with a non-stretch backing,
designed in a way so as to give good foot support, are a better
choice. Some dancers are prone to getting puffy feet (from
fluid build-up) after dancing,
so always take this into account when choosing a new footwear
style.
Open toe verses closed styles.
Open toe styles can vary from a very small opening, where
the toes may be barely visible, to a very large opening with
all the toes showing. This latter situation quite often results
in the foot moving forward in the shoe causing the toes to
overlap the front of the shoe - 'hanging five' as it were.
So smaller open toes are safer than the larger ones - particularly
for the more narrow feet.
Many
of the traditional Tango, Rock 'n' Roll, Character and old
style Ballroom 'court' shoes all have closed in toes. Be careful
here with the more pointy toed styles, as they can make the
shoes too long and unwieldy for dancing, and may also squash
the little toe and put extra side pressure on the big toe.
Many
dancers feel that having a completely closed toe will protect
their feet from their dancing partners stomping on them. This
may be true, but I feel a small peep-toe is a better
option, both from a fitting perspective and also by providing
a shoe that is better ventilated.
This opening in the front of a non-strappy, semi-closed
style of shoe, allows more air to flow around the foot, keeping
the foot cooler and reducing perspiration.
Back Straps and Enclosed Heels.
Sandal style dance shoes with closed-in backs are generally
more secure for dancing than open-back styles, with just an
ankle strap or the mini semi-enclosed backs found on many
imported dance shoes.
Multiple
Width Fittings and Half Sizes.
Having
a choice between multiple width fittings, proper half sizes
and a variety of heel heights, and being able to cater for
‘odd feet’ can be extremely important to many dancers. Prodance
footwear, is one of a very small number of footwear suppliers
left in the world, whose footwear has all these characteristics.
The
majority of dancers who need one or more of these features,
will find choosing from ‘off the rack shoes’ inadequate for
obtaining a proper fit. One foot may be wider or narrower
or longer or shorter. Most ‘off the rack’ brands of footwear
have only one width fitting, and may or may not even have
proper half sizes in length.
In my personal experience a minimum of one in every
four dancers [25%] usually needs a non standard fitting or
a lower heel.
9.
SOCKS and PANTYHOSE
Remember
that non-porous fibres of 100% synthetic socks or pantyhose
do not absorb perspiration and may also encourage friction
against the inside of shoes, particularly enclosed styles.
This friction heats up the foot, increasing the amount of
perspiration, which in turn leads to a 'hot-house' effect
inside the shoe - making the inside hot and slippery. This
then becomes an ideal environment for unwanted bacteria and
fungus.
The shoe then starts to smell, and so do the feet. Once infected,
it is virtually impossible to
get rid of this bacteria and fungus from the shoes, and obviously
feet are then prone to infections.
Better
quality socks are usually a mixture of Cotton/Nylon/Elastane
- and should be listed in that order,
to show that they are predominantly cotton. Elastane is for
stretch. Price may not be an accurate guide to quality.
It
should be noted that some individuals have feet that perspire
excessively and can end up with feet and footwear that smell
a lot more than normal.
For these people footwear and hosiery choices are extremely
important in order to maintain good foot health.
10.
JOGGERS
Well
designed and constructed proper running shoes or joggers should
be made to reduce undue strain on the feet, legs, knees and
back while running on hard surfaces.
Some of the main features to look for in joggers include:
*
Light weight construction, breathable mesh front
*
The sole of the jogger should have a thick, soft, light-weight
midsole to reduce jarring, and a thin, hardwearing outsole
for durability.
*
The back two thirds of the sole unit should be completely
rigid, and only bend under the ball of the foot and toe area.
Beware of joggers where the midsole narrows at the side in
the middle of the shoe, in an hour-glass type shape, as it
weakens the strength of the midsection.
*
The back portion of the sole should be wedge shaped, viewed
from the side. The outer side of the mid-sole, underneath
the heel needs to be softer than the inner side to reduce
pronation. Recent studies by sports medicine experts have
shown that visible plastic bubbles of air under the full heel,
at the sides in the mid-sole area of some joggers, may have
a destabilizing effect while running, so are not recommended.
*
Overall foot and leg stability while running, is more important
than softness underneath the foot.
*
The innersole directly under the heel, inside the shoe, should
be made of impact absorbing foam and be of reasonable thickness
to be effective in reducing the jarring on heel strike.
*
The surface of the innersole inside the shoe should not feel
slippery when walking or running, as this increases friction
and heat and reduces stability inside the shoe.
*
The back part of the upper to be high behind the heel, and
have a strong heel counter and a padded,
securely fitted top-line to ensure heel stability.
*
The front part of the shoe must not be too tapered at the
sides so as to pressure the little toe, nor too wide
or too deep so as to create movement and friction inside the
shoe while running.
*
Tennis and squash shoes and many cross trainers are unsuitable
for running.
*
Absorbent cotton mixture socks should be worn when running
at all times. If perspiration is excessive, change them as
often as necessary. Wearing any sport shoe without socks is
not recommended, as the perspiration generated stays in the
shoe, encouraging the growth of unwanted bacteria and fungus.
*
Softer running surfaces such as grass or sand should be
used where possible to reduce jarring, rather than using roads
or footpaths.
11.
HYGIENE AND SOME COMMON FOOT AILMENTS
*
The obvious - wash feet daily, preferably in the evening,
drying carefully between the toes.
*
Cut toe-nails straight across or very gently curved, level
with the tips of the toes, to avoid ingrown toe-nails.
*
Avoid the use of foot-powders, if possible.
*
Wear absorbent socks or pantyhose at all times with enclosed
footwear; the main exception here is if you go sailing on
a boat.
*
AIR-CONDITIONING SHOES.
If your feet get too hot, or perspire excessively, especially
when dancing for
long periods, it may be advantageous to punch 2 or 3 ventilation
holes on the inner side of each enclosed shoe, with an eyelet
punch. Do this with care, as this action works better on some
upper materials than on others,
and will void the manufacturer's warranty on the shoes.
*
FOOT ODOUR
is caused by a build up of anaerobic bacteria and fungus growing
happily in socks, shoe linings and
upper materials. There are 250,000 sweat glands in each foot,
so reduce contributing factors as much as possible .
Shoes should be aired each evening [without socks stuffed
in them], preferably near an open window.
Remember once a shoe is infected, it will invariably stay
that way. If all fails, then medical or podiatric advice should
be taken.
*
TINEA
is a fungal condition of the skin, often occurring between
the toes, under the ball of the foot, and even on toe-nails.
This fungus likes warm, dark and moist conditions that may
arise from wearing synthetic hosiery or non-breathing footwear,
and is very contagious. Feet with soggy broken skin between
the toes are easily infected, particularly by contact with
wet floors found in communal showers and swimming pools. Wearing
synthetic beach style thongs or sandals in these areas, will
help prevent infection. Seek medical advice.
*
DISCOLOURED TOE-NAILS
may be the result of a fungal infection. Use Daktarin tincture
on the nails or seek medical advice.
*
CRACKED or DRY HEELS.
Use special Dry Skin creams or Heel Balms containing 10% +
urea.
Massage onto skin or heels, twice daily.
Any abrasive action on hard skin, should be done extremely
carefully, small amounts each day.
Fungal infections may be a contributing factor here also.
If this is the case, then use a small amount of "Tea tree
Antiseptic Cream" or "Bio-Juven SBS1 Skin Balm before
you use the heel balm with 10% urea, or seek medical advice.
*
CORNS AND CALLUSES.
Are usually the result of constant rubbing and pressure by
the shoe on the skin of the foot. Very common on toes, especially
the little one. Continuous irritation, such as ill-fitting
or overly rigid shoes, causes a build up of hard skin. Better
fitting footwear and careful abrasive action usually fixes
this problem.
*
WARTS
are a virus infection of the skin, which is possibly why the
body's immune system has trouble getting rid of them. They
tend to attack the skin more often when the skin is moist,
or when the surface has been irritated or broken. PLANTAR
WARTS are found on the soles, or under the heels of the
feet. Advice from a podiatrist or other medical practitioner
is recommended if they are a problem.
*
BUNIONS [ Hallux Valgus ]
most often arise from a type of joint misalignment. This condition,
thought to be largely hereditary, is easily aggravated by
tight socks or pantyhose, high heeled shoes, pointed toe shoes,
or shoes that are too small or tight at the toe. In this condition,
the large toe starts to angulate toward the second toe. The
joint before the big toe becomes more prominent, enlarged
and inflamed - leading to foot deformity, pain and loss of
foot function later in adult life.
Professional
help, even at age 4 to 5 years, is recommended. Controlling
the rate of progression of this problem is not straight forward
or guaranteed, so that continuing advice from a family doctor,
podiatrist and chiropractor would be important to compare
views.
Chiropractic mobilisation of the joint area, together with
prescribed orthotics may assist in some cases.
Pointe
work in Classical and Jazz Ballet will aggravate this problem.
Women Latin and Ballroom dancers suffering from this condition
should consider wearing shoes with heels as low as possible.
*
DIABETES
is a chronic disorder which, among other things, can cause
a loss of sensation to the feet, impair blood circulation,
reduce resistance to infection, and slow down the healing
process. Accurately fitted shoes are necessary to protect
the feet. Shoes and clothing must not impose excessive pressure
or rub skin anywhere. Shoes should be worn everywhere for
protection, to avoid the possibility of cuts and abrasions,
which could cause infection. It could be a problem for energetic
dancers. Medical supervision is essential at all times.
12.
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE
*
A podiatrist
is a health professional who deals with the prevention, diagnosis
and treatment of medical conditions of the feet and lower
legs.
*
In many situations a good chiropractor
or osteopath, expert in foot mobilisation will
complement the advice given by a podiatrist.
*
For some specific problems an orthopaedic
doctor may need to be consulted.
*
Unfortunately the solution[s], if any, to many biomechanical
foot problems are not black and white.
This particular medical area can be a minefield of complexity,with
no one type of medical practitioner able to give you all the
correct answers, all the time.
My
best advice, regardless of who you see, is to be very proactive
in your approach.
Write things down, never be afraid to ask questions,
be open minded and informed about dealing with the above medical
conditions, follow the advice given, and if in doubt get a
second opinion.
If surgery is recommended always get an opinion from at
least two surgeons and one chiropractor.
13.
CORRECTIVE ORTHOTIC DEVICES [arch supports]
True
orthotic devices are specially prescribed footwear inserts,
individually made to be worn in shoes, to reduce symptoms
arising from foot and leg problems. They are designed according
to very precise measurements, which determine the exact relationship
between the bones, muscles and ligaments of each foot in stance
and gait. Depending on circumstances and preferences, these
orthotics may be made from rigid plastic or from softer materials.
They may cover the length of the foot, or just the back part.
If rigid orthotics are used for sporting activities, advice
should be taken as to their suitability for those sports,
particularly if jarring is involved. If problems or discomfort
occurs in connection with the wearing of orthotics, always
go back to the prescribing podiatrist immediately for advice.
Orthotics
need to be reviewed every 12 months or so, depending on the
amount of foot growth [for younger people], the physical condition
of the orthotics themselves and of course whether it is felt
they are effectively doing the job for which they were prescribed.
NEVER
buy any form of pre-made arch supports before obtaining professional
advice from a podiatrist: the most well meaning intentions
may have unpredictable results, causing even more problems
to the feet, legs, knees, pelvis or back.
Because
there are so few nerves in the bones, pain associated from
disfunctional joints comes from the soft tissues in the joints
and muscles. For many people with foot, leg, knee and back
pain, prescribed orthotics can be a gift from heaven, whereby
alleviating some of their aches and pains, allowing them to
live a more normal life.
Health
supplements such as Glucosamine, Chondroitin and MSM are now
often prescribed by many Health Professionals to alleviate
pain and to assist in the regeneration of damaged joints.
14.
FOOT MEASURING DEVICES and SIZING SYSTEMS
When
you go into a shoe store they may or may not have some sort
of foot measuring device to find out your foot size. You should
be aware that these devices should be used as a guide only
for foot size. They are used mainly for measuring foot length
and for checking variations between the left and right foot.
Due to a lack of accuracy and conformity of shoe sizes,
foot or shoe width or girth measurements usually have little
meaning.
There
is one thing that all these different foot measuring devices
have in common: each one will agree to disagree on what your
size actually is. Despite claims to the contrary, they are
all calibrated to slightly different standards, so that each
device will give a slightly different reading for any given
foot length.
Prior
to World War II the US sizing system was much less variable
than it is now. Since the USA began to import huge amounts
of sports footwear from S.E. Asia in the 1960's and 1970's,
there seems to be a lot less control over sizing standards.
It is now very common for both UK and US sizes to vary
in length not only among manufacturers, but even among various
footwear styles made in a single factory.
Examples
of these labelling discrepancies on UK / US / EUR size equivalents,
can be found on the labels inside nearly all brands of imported
footwear, particularly sports shoes.
15.
MAIN SOURCES OF INFORMATION
| Sydney
Technical College |
School of Footwear |
School
of Podiatry |
The
Australian Podiatry Association [NSW]
British Shoe and Allied Trades Research Association
"Buying Power" by Helen Wellings [Publisher 'Arnold']
Clark's Footwear Training Manual
"Foot and Ankle Pain" by Rene Cailliet, M.D. [2nd Edition]
South African Bureau of Standards [1977]
Dancing Shoes Australia information files Edited by
podiatrists and chiropractors.
[c]
Copyright Garry Abeshouse 1983, 1987, 2001, 2003, 2004, 2005
'Disclaimer,
Terms and Conditions of Use'